1 Heat/1 Cool Thermostat
Everything you may need:
Phillips screwdriver (I’d propose a 6-in-1)
A Precision screwdriver (phillips or flat)
W ire Strippers
A Degree (rather a torpedo level)
PPE (Personal Protection Equipment, safety glasses, gloves, etc. ) . ) .)
In this tutorial we are supposing that the thermostat wire was conducted to your thermostat location from your furnace.
First step is to put on your PPE equipment closely by turning off the breaker to your 18, followed. If you have a switch from the furnace I would also propose turning to the off position as well.Failing to perform this measure can, and probably will, result in broken equipment. Make Sure You TURN THE SYSTEM OFF!
Go to the location where you will be installing a new thermostat or to wherever your thermostat is installed. If that is a new install and you’re currently pulling wire I’d suggest pulling on 18/8 thermostat cable. Most thermostats and regular (single heating / single trendy ) systems won’t need more than 5 wire to run your fan, heating, and cooling features. However, it is never a bad idea to get additional cable for future expansion of the body (I.E. outdoor air sensor, humidification, etc.. .) .
Eliminate your thermostat. It is vital that it don’t just throw away if your thermostat has mercury bulbs. Mercury is toxic and needs to be treated as such. If you have one of these thermostats please see the next site for proper disposal and handling of your old t-stat. (epa.gov)
Determine what kind of wire was pulled, As soon as your thermostat is removed. Depending on how old your house is you could have anywhere between two (2) to eight (8) wire pulled. Nearly all of the digital thermostats need at least five cable to be pulled to the thermostat location. If you just have two wire pulled to your thermostat place don’t worry you wont need to pull wire. There are thermostats that can be found on the marketplace.
Hopefully you have at least five (5) cable pulled to the place. We’re going to base the remainder of the tutorial that you have a minimum of five wire pulled.
You should have the wire colors:
Red / White / Yellow / Green / Blue
On some older cables your colours may not be exactly the exact same but those colors are the norm at least in the USA.
For a better knowledge of your own body, and exactly what each cable is for, I’ll break them down.
Red (R terminal): The red wire is the control voltage cable. It’s the wire that provides a 24v sign from the Furnace to a Thermostat which allows your thermostat to maneuver signals back to your own furnace to Heat, Cool, operate your Fan, and any accessories that you may have. It also supplies power also allows your thermostat. Temperature, time, date, etc.. .
White (W or W1 terminal): The white wire is in your control circuit for heating. It allows a signal to travel into your furnace from the thermostat.
Yellow (Y or Y1 terminal): The yellow wire is on your control circuit for coolingsystem. It allows a signal to travel from the thermostat into your furnace when it is time to cool.
Green (G terminal): The green wire is on your control circuit to your Fan. It helps a signal to travel from your thermostat to your furnace.
Blue (C or X or B terminal): The blue wire is the typical wire. It completes the controller voltage circuit for your thermostat and allows your thermostat.
Now you have a better understanding of what each cable is for let us start installing your thermostat.
Separate your face plate that is thermostats out of it is base-plate. Place your face-plate in a location that is safe. Thread the wire through the back of this base-plate and apply the mounting hardware (normally supplied with the thermostat) to mount your thermostat. Ensure that your thermostat base-plate is flat with your torpedo level. We could begin wiring your own thermostat When you’ve mounted your base-plate.
The first thing is first; If the sheathing of this cable remains in-tact we need to strip back sheathing that is so we can work together with all our five wires. In case you have sufficient slack on your thermostat wire I suggest stripping at least six inches of sheathing leaving the five wires exposed and no more bound.
Conventional 18/5 Wire.
If you don’t have enough slack to do so just use what you have from the thermostat
After the wires are exposed we’ll strip approximately 1/4″ from every one of the individual wires. Exposing the copper.
There is but for the purposes of the tutorial I will assign an arrangement to connect your wires.
We’ll start with the Red cable. Twist the exposed aluminum to the R terminal from the RED wire. Utilize your controller screwdriver to screw down the terminal screw on the cable. Give a mild tug, on the wire, to ensure that the wire is secured to the base-plate.
Next we will attach the Blue wire. Insert the exposed aluminum into the C terminal of your base-plate. This terminal may be labeled by an X or even a B. If you have all these labels on your install the wire. Utilize your controller screwdriver to screw down the terminal screw on the wire. Give a mild tug, on the attached wire, to make certain that the wire is fastened to the base-plate.
Then we will take the Green wire. Insert the exposed aluminum wire of the base-plate that is thermostats. Use your control screwdriver to screw the terminal screw onto the cable. Give a tug, on the attached cable, to make certain that the wire is fastened to the base-plate.
Next we’ll take the White cable. Plug the aluminum in the WHITE wire on your base-plate to the W terminal. This terminal may also be labeled W1/O or W1 depending on your thermostat. Utilize your control screwdriver to screw down the terminal screw onto the cable. Give a tug, on the cable that is attached, to ensure that the wire is secured to the base-plate.
Finally we’ll take the Yellow wire and plug the aluminum that is exposed to the Y terminal. This terminal may be branded Y1. Use your control screwdriver to twist down the terminal screw onto the cable. Give a emitting, on the cable that is attached, to ensure that the wire is secured to the base-plate.
You’ve wired your thermostat! Snap back your faceplate . Viola! You are done with that area of the setup.
Now, simply to ensure we are fitting on the furnace end you will need to locate your furnace and remove the entry panels to check that the wiring matches upward. While the color coordination that I’ve shown you here is essentially a standard now, you never know what the original technician did. It’s ideal to double check his wiring to ensure that it matches with what we have only done with the thermostat. Check to Be Certain that each wire matches exactly the same as we did:
Red to R
Blue to C
Green to G
White into W
Yellow to Y
Be sure to change. As soon as you’re done for this, set the panels back. Proceed to a breaker and electricity on the furnace. If you had a support disconnect (a change ) next to your furnace move and turn this on at this time as well.
Now the fun part. Return to your thermostat and check to see if it is screen is on. To guarantee everything is functioning properly operate it through every purpose: Fan on, Heat on, A/C on.
1 Heat/1 Cool Thermostat